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- <text id=90TT0695>
- <title>
- Mar. 19, 1990: Oman:Arabia's Magic Kingdom
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1990
- Mar. 19, 1990 The Right To Die
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- TRAVEL, Page 75
- Arabia's Magic Kingdom
- </hdr>
- <body>
- <p>Ending its isolation, Oman welcomes tourists--rich ones
- </p>
- <p>By Dean Fischer/Miscat
- </p>
- <p> The sun rises like a fiery red ball from the blue-black
- depths of the Arabian Sea. As darkness retreats across the
- Hajar mountains, the barren landscape changes from gray-brown
- to beige and copper. It is the birth of a new day in the
- Sultanate of Oman, a legendary home of Sinbad the Sailor and
- fabled source of frankincense for the Queen of Sheba. In this
- New Mexico-size nation, located on the cutting edge of the
- Arabian Peninsula, the dawn light-and-shadow show is a
- spectacular curtain raiser to a host of attractions that have
- made it one of the world's newest and most unusual tourist
- destinations.
- </p>
- <p> Known as the Magic Kingdom, Oman (estimated pop. 2 million)
- is a land of exceptional beauty and diversity. A 1,000-mile
- coastline arcs southward from the limestone cliffs of Musandam
- to the powdery beaches of Salalah, a major trading town in the
- monsoon-brushed province of Dhofar. Southwest of the former
- slave-trading port of Sur lies a 5,000-sq.-mi. sea of sand
- whose dune ridges rise as high as 350 ft. above the Wahiba
- desert floor. To the north, the Jebel Akhdar (Green Mountain)
- anchors the Hajar range. Mud-brick houses cling to its steep
- slopes, and fortresses whose foundations precede the age of
- Islam guard entry to its valleys.
- </p>
- <p> Before 1987 the country was off limits to tourists. When he
- deposed his father in 1970, Sultan Qaboos bin Said took over
- one of the world's most primitive nations. With revenues from
- oil, first discovered in 1954, the Sultan superimposed the
- infrastructure of a modern state on Oman's tribal society. In
- 1985, celebrating 15 years on the throne, Qaboos hosted a
- meeting of Arab rulers at the Al Bustan Palace Hotel, a
- marble-and-tile monument to Arabian opulence on a
- mountain-ringed bay near Muscat. It was a sort of coming-out
- party, signaling the end of Oman's virtual isolation from the
- outside world.
- </p>
- <p> In 1987 Qaboos cautiously opened the doors of the sultanate
- to tourists--but on a highly selective basis. "We don't want
- to see hippies with long hair and dirty jeans in any part of
- the sultanate," said Commerce Minister Salim bin Abdullah
- al-Ghazali. "We do not want tourism that will destroy our
- dignity, our habits, our traditions." The government designated
- local hotels and tour operators as sponsoring agents for
- tourists and held them responsible for their clients' behavior.
- To obtain a visa valid for up to three months, a hotel or
- travel agency must submit a tourist's application to the
- Department of Immigration.
- </p>
- <p> During the 1987-88 November through March season, 900
- tourists came to Oman. This season an estimated 6,000 have
- visited. (Tourism virtually ceases from April to October, when
- temperatures routinely exceed 100 degrees F.) Nearly
- three-fourths of Oman's tourists are Swiss, with the remainder
- divided among Germans, Belgians, French and other Europeans.
- For Japanese and American travelers, the sultanate still awaits
- discovery--a consequence of lack of promotion, long-distance
- travel and substantial expense. The preponderance of Swiss
- largely reflects the promotion of Oman as a holiday mecca by
- Kuoni Travel, a Zurich-based agency that flies more than 100
- tourists each winter week to Muscat via Balair charter.
- </p>
- <p> It is not a cheap trip. For a seven-day, bed-and-breakfast
- stay at the Al Bustan, the Kuoni round-trip tour from Zurich
- costs $1,900 for one person and $3,400 a couple. Such prices
- effectively exclude the unwanted backpack brigade. The mostly
- middle-age European tourists who pay the fare are delighted
- with the warm winter sunshine, pure air, clean beaches, good
- food and wine, and comfortable accommodations at the Al Bustan,
- its sister hotel the Muscat Inter-Continental, or one of the
- other six major hotels in the Omani capital.
- </p>
- <p> Most tourists spend their time swimming and sunbathing,
- interspersed with taking coach trips to restored Omani forts
- and to traditional suqs (bazaars) in once remote trading
- centers. There they bargain over silver ankle bracelets or
- khanjars, the curved daggers in silver scabbards that bearded
- Omani tribesmen belt around their hips as symbols of their
- virility.
- </p>
- <p> The country's diversity also offers opportunities for camel
- trekking in the Wahiba dunes, rock climbing in the Musandam
- peninsula, skin diving and deep-sea fishing in the Indian
- Ocean, spelunking in the limestone caves that honeycomb the
- Hajar mountains and bird watching in the Dhofari salt marshes.
- But perhaps the country's greatest attraction is the scarcity
- of other tourists--an advantage that is, ironically, likely
- to disappear as Oman's charms become better known.
- </p>
-
- </body>
- </article>
- </text>
-
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